#YouCanHackIt Cotton Summer Dress

I have been saving this fabric for at least 2 years waiting for the right idea to come along, and  I’m delighted to say that the result is exactly what I was dreaming of !

I’ve seen so many variations of this silhouette across social media. The shape is so simple that I decided I could create my own version by adapting one of my current fitted bodice patterns #YouCanHackIt. My base was the Sonja Dress by Salme Patterns who is unfortunately no longer active. This is a pattern I’ve already heavily modified to fit me, but is still evolving as my patterning skills improve.

To make my new pattern, I took out the center back seam and transferred 3cm of SA onto the left side to have room for an invisible zipper. I deepened the arm scythe and drew my desired neckline. After only one mockup, I re-adjusted the neckline and pinned on straps to extract a measurement.

I also opted out of the waist darts for a more casual fit but left the markings on my pattern for future versions.

Here’s a look at the cut of the neckline. It works well with a lightweight blouse underneath.

For a clean finish, I lined the top with the same fabric. This also means the straps can be sandwiched between the two layers.

I cut the straps very long so I could adjust the length as desired, but after trying it on, I decided to keep the full length. I feel super glam as they float in the air as I walk.

The matching belt is my first-ever attempt at belt making. I definitely need some more practice, but it is actually way easier than I thought. It is a pretty common feature of dresses from the 50s/60s and just makes the outfit feel complete. The tiny buckle was part of a bag of sewing supplies purchased at an antique store in the US for cheap. For the buttonholes I used eyelet stitch on my machine and punched holes with my handy awl. I used an existing belt as a reference for measurements.

I definitely plan to experiment more in belt making and have a few other buckles in my stash I can use. Also, does anyone else hate spending money on those tiny belts ? You know they’re going to wear out quickly, are made of really crap materials that are bad for the environment, and also never have enough colors to match what you want them to…Yay for sewing 😎

The skirt is a simple gathered rectangle. Rather than use any specific measurement, I used the remainder of my fabric left after creating the bodice. The hem is finished by folding over twice and machine stitching. It was a very wide hem to add a bit more weight at the bottom and bring it up to my desired length. 

😁 The good: The fabric and pattern combo is 💯

😱 The bad: After wearing out of the house on a humid day, it would be more comfortable to slightly widen arm scythe again, but this version is absolutely wearable as is.

🧐 To improve: I think the skirt needs either 1) a slip because it is a lightweight fabric or 2) a petticoat to add some fullness to the silhouette. For these photos I wore another midi skirt underneath to fake the look of a petticoat. 

That’s all for today, but you’ll definitely be seeing new variations of this bodice pattern this summer 🙂


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