Sewing a 1950s shorts pattern without instructions

I’ve had this pattern for almost a year in my stash, just waiting to make the perfect shorts suit. I purchased it on Etsy, alongside with a few other vintage patterns, when I went back to the States last summer. I’ve been wanting to make a shorts suit for a while, and it seems like this year it’s becoming a super trend.

However, the reason it took me so long to make these is because I’m scared of pants 😱. Crotch curves and depth, complicated waistbands, and worst of all: front flies. And even when you feel comfortable with a pattern, it can easily go awry just by switching up the fabric choice. Since I generally tend to wear skirts and dresses most of the year, it’s too easy to ignore my need for pants.

So lo and behold I motivate myself to open my pattern and cut into this beautiful suiting fabric and got ready to assemble everything when I realized…I’m missing the instructions for the shorts !

To be honest, I’m not sure how much of a loss this is since Big 4 sewing patterns are notoriously bad about writing detailed, clear instructions. But let’s just say I decided to go back and make a mockup in scrap cotton.

Overall, I am happy with the result. I didn’t make any fit adjustments. The pattern I purchased was a size 16 which corresponded with my body measurements. The waistband is a very comfortable high waist, with a loose fit shaped by darts. The pockets are deep enough to actually hold my phone.

There’s just one thing which I hate about the final result, which is the visible front fly. To wear the shorts out in public, I paired them with an unticked white linen buttonup (the Grainline Studio Archer pattern). However, in the meantime I think I’ve identified what I need to do next time I make this pattern.

When comparing with a pair of RTW trousers, I realized that they have an additional piece. A long rectanlge to which the top layer of the fly is sewn and then folded to the inside. This creates a nice amount of space between the edge of the fabric and the zipper so that it’s nicely hidden.

Looking back on the pattern envelope, it turns out this piece is missing 😭😭😭. But at least this is a piece I can easily DIY now that I know where it’s supposed to go.

😁 The good: This soft suiting fabric is a perfect match for the pattern. Also, for a true high-waist, it’s also very comfortable. I wore it all day at work and out for a walk.

😱 The bad: My front fly construction is missing a key piece.

🧐 To improve: Perhaps after I get more comfortable with the final front fly construction I’ll go back and fix this pair, but I don’t have the courage for the moment.

Hope you enjoyed hearing about my mini-sewing disaster! It feels a bit strange to show projects that don’t work out exactly as I wanted, but I think it’s a valuable part of the sewing community to show what our sewing journeys are really like. Here’s to someday sewing that perfect pair of shorts or trousers ❤️


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